Amsterdam and Bruges: Waffles and Fairytales
My days in Amsterdam were all too short and it was soon time for the next leg of my solo European adventure. One thing I love about travel in Europe is how easy and affordable it is to explore by train. Depending on your plans and itinerary, there are various passes available, but in this instance, a single ticket made the most sense. Always compare prices once you know your plans, though. Trainline is the site I would recommend for booking individual journeys, especially across multiple lines. To get from Amsterdam to Bruges I booked the first leg on a direct, high speed Thalys train from Centraal Station to Brussels-Midi.
Once there, I transferred to the Belgium national railway, SNCB, for the second leg to Bruges. I booked the entire itinerary in advance in first class, which isn’t terribly more expensive and was worth the splurge for this trip. For trips between countries, it’s best to book ahead as tickets get more expensive the closer you get to your travel date. There were multiple options to get from point A(msterdam) to point B(ruges) via train, but this was the quickest and most direct. As I said, I love this mode of travel. It’s easy, comfortable, and affordable.
In a little over three hours, I arrived in the fairytale town of Bruges, one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe. Charming doesn’t even begin to cover it. I booked two nights at the insanely delightful boutique Hotel de Orangerie. This may be my new favorite place I’ve stayed. It was entirely too romantic for a solo trip.
Housed in a former 16th century convent just off the main square, the common spaces were stunning and each of the 20 rooms was uniquely lovely. I was booked in a comfort room category and I seriously hearted it. There were so many thoughtful touches like local chocolates and sparkling water and (my fave European amenity) towel warmers.
Around every corner there was something to discover. The downstairs lounge was my favorite - the perfect spot to curl up with a book by the cozy fire while glancing out the window at the canal or to enjoy a warm cup of hot chocolate after an evening stroll.
My first afternoon, I booked the champagne high tea, which I enjoyed in the adjacent dining room. It was perfection. This is also where the amazing breakfast buffet is served each morning.
After a leisurely tea, I set out to explore. I used a VoiceMap walking tour, downloaded in advance on my phone (so no cell service needed while using it), to learn about the city. I loved this. For less than the cost of a coffee, I had an interesting and informative tour of Bruges that was fully integrated with GPS. As I walked from site to site, learning about the fascinating history of the town, I was provided with seamless directions. All tours on the app are uploaded by local guides, so I would expect the quality to vary, but The Magic of Bruges Tour was excellent (if you’re local to Roseburg, there’s actually a downtown tour that Brandon and I plan to do next time we have a date night). It was like having my own expert guide.
Somehow I managed to work up an appetite. Because I only had two evenings in Bruges, I really wanted to focus on local cuisine. I found the quaint ‘t Lammetje and it was exactly what I wanted. I ordered garlic mussels and frites. Paired with a glass of wine, it was a perfect meal.
I ended the day with an evening stroll to appreciate the beauty of Bruges after dark. As charming as Bruges is by day, at night it is nothing short of magical.
I had one full day in Bruges. Thankfully, that day was a Wednesday, so I got to experience the weekly market in the main square.
I had some time to explore the market before meeting my guide, Patrick, for a food tour of Bruges. I had wavered about booking this tour through With Locals - it was only available as a private tour, which meant it was more expensive than my usual small group tour and I would have to make conversation with a stranger for two whole hours. I am so glad I decided to book. The 10 Tastes of Bruges tour was one of my favorite things from the entire trip. It was informative and delicious and I learned so much from a local who was proud of his home.
After the tour, my other priority was seeing Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. This was his only sculpture to leave Italy during his lifetime. It was first put into the altar in the Church of Our Lady in 1514, where it still resides today. The sculpture was stolen twice - first by Napoleon and later by Hitler. Thankfully it survived to return to its intended home. There were other artwork and sculptures to see in the church, as well.
After a bit of shopping, I returned to my amazing hotel for a phone call with my boys and maaaybe for a nap. That evening, I set out for one last dinner in Bruges. Because of this small country’s location, the food is influenced by Dutch, French, and German cuisine (and all of these languages are spoken). The region that Bruges is in is known as Flanders and I wanted to make sure I tried some traditional Flemish dishes. Het Hof Van Rembrandt was just the place. I began my meal with shrimp croquettes made with the small yet mighty North Sea Shrimp and followed that with a classic Flemish stew. I washed it all down with a stout Belgian beer.
I ended my evening with another meander around the historic town. I had no agenda. I just wandered, taking in the medieval buildings as the sun slowly set. As I walked, I felt a heart full of gratitude for the opportunity to take this trip and to explore such a beautiful place.
The next day, I would head to Brussels to catch my flight home early the following morning. There were direct trains throughout the day, so I had no specific time line. My final morning I climbed all 366 steps of the Belfry of Bruges, getting a closeup of the still working bells, some of them several centuries old, along with an amazing view of the city.
I also checked out the interactive Historium, focused on the Golden Age of Bruges during the 14th century and specifically on the life of Jan van Eyck. It wasn’t my favorite thing I did, but it was enjoyable. I had just enough time for frietjes (the best ones are just outside the clock tower) before (reluctantly) checking out of my hotel.
My final night, I stayed right next to the airport, which was convenient, if not as amazing as my previous hotels. I was able to quickly get the required Covid test, the on-site restaurant was adequate if not outstanding, and I literally walked across a sidewalk to get to the terminal the next morning.
I had an amazing trip. It was a much needed chance to relax and rejuvenate. It was luxurious and healing. I was ready to see my boys, but I wasn’t really ready to go home. I eased the blow a little bit by using points to book business class tickets for the long flight home. It. Was. Worth. It. Lounge access, comfortable lie flat seats, fancy meals served on actual plates and cocktails presented in crystal. I wish I could always fly like this.
I had the best vacation and you can be sure I’m already brainstorming my next solo adventure. But nothing quite beats the two sweet hugs I got from my loves when I finally made it home.
Where I Stayed: Hotel de Orangerie and Sheraton Brussels Airport
What I Did: VoiceMap Walking Tour, 10 Tastes of Bruges Tour (I can highly recommend Patrick as a guide), Madonna and Child, Belfry of Bruges, Historium
Where I Ate: High Tea and breakfast at Hotel de Orangerie, ‘t Lammetje, Het Hof Van Rembrandt
Foods to Try: fries (they originated here, after all), waffles (both Brussels and Liege style), North Sea shrimp, beer, chocolate!, pate or tartar, mussels, gratin, stoemp (so many potato dishes) with sausages, beef stew, meatballs, and cuberdon. What can I say, Belgian food is excellent.